• Behind the Iron Curtain: Prison Tattoos

    I you’d like to find out what’s going on in American prisons you have two choices: commit a small crime or read the best-selling Prisons For Dummies series. It’s a lot harder (but not entirely impossible) to get yourself locked up in a Russian correctional institution, so for the only other practical choice I recommend renting the documentary Alix Lambert’s The Mark of Cain. The film crew seemed to have unlimited access to prison facilities and inmates (they are called “ZK” in Russian jargon) which resulted in many candid interviews and interesting inside footage. While the movie starts off as a research in prison tattoos, their meaning and role in prison life, it goes on to describe living conditions in said prisons, which make some American lock-ups look like a picnic in a park, albeit with bars on windows and barbed-wired fences.

    When I was growing up© the legends about prison life were passed from person to person. Everyone seemed to know somebody whose uncle’s cousin served time or something like that. Prison life wasn’t idolized, we all knew it sucked, but at the same time it had a touch of a legend. I can draw a loose parallel to Jesse James: he was a bloody murderer but somewhat a celebrity at the same time. We knew about tattoos and how a person could get killed for drawing something that wasn’t appropriate for his prison ranking. (The movie actually mentions that there were known cases of tattoos being cut off with the skin.) We heard prison songs, it didn’t matter to us that some of the singers had never seen prison in their life. The songs were sad and hopeful, remorseful, defiant and we all knew them. Tapes were copied thousands of times and sold or passed around. Large part of Russian pop-music still sounds like old prison songs.

    You can find some information about the Russian prison tattoos online and in literature, but if you don’t mind subtitles I recommend you take a look at the movie for a quick intro

    httpvh://youtu.be/xJyaSXoSQtU

    By a strange coincidence – another tattoo-related post from XO on the same day when I was watching the movie.

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  • Persimmon (Public Service Announcement)

    Over my years here I discovered that some Americans shy away from tasty foods because they may seem exotic and unknown. I am not advocating eating anything weird here and I have my limits too . Snakes, turtles, coffee crapped out by monkeys, and other strange things are not normally found in my menu. However, as a public service, I always try to introduce my co-workers and anyone who would listen (I don’t have any friends) to some foods that are truly good but may not be well-known for one reason or another.
    Today I would like to talk about persimmons. Persimmons are apparently very popular in Asia but I’ve known and loved them since I was a child. There are two kinds of persimmon – astringent (which means it will pucker up your mouth so bad, you will curse me when you can start talking again) and non-astringent which you can eat like a crunchy apple. The astringent kind seems to taste more sophisticated while the other kind is sweet,juicy and tasty. If you purchase astringent kind which is actually called hachiya make sure you let it ripen until soft before eating it. You can also freeze it overnight and the let it thaw to get rid of mouth-puckering tannins. Hachiya persimmons have pointy shape and are easy to spot.
    The other kind of persimmons is called fuyu.They are flattened on the top and bottom. These are bright orange when ripe and I eat them with skin just like an apple.

    Locally you can buy persimmons at Chinese and Vietnamese stores around City Market, any other Asian store and for little more money at your grocery store and Costco.
    They are currently in season and about 99 cents for a pound. Try to get some without blemishes and visible soft spots.
    Read more about persimmons and enjoy.

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  • Checked Off My Bucket List: Seattle

    Preface:

    Hundreds of thousands of people with better cameras and better photography skills vacation at the same places as me.

    Hundreds of thousands of people are better at travel writing than I am, better at writing in general, and are clearly better than me at speaking English.

    Go read their damn blogs….

    I love to travel. It helps me to relax; feel in charge when I am planning my next trip, buying tickets and making reservations; learn new things; change the scenery; feel better (or worse) about my hometown. Most importantly, it helps me not to raise a moron. This year we traveled to the Pacific Northwest, a place that until now remained a blank spot on my travel map. We visited Seattle, took an Amtrak train to San Francisco and drove 450 miles along the Pacific Coast on Highways 1 and 101, stopping for a night in Monterey. The trip turned out to be even better than I imagined.

    The next several posts will be about these places illustrated with tons of photos (I brought back 1,214, which would probably weigh tons if I was using film).

    Face:

    If there was a god, the Pacific Northwest would have been his reward to the people who didn’t quit going West in the middle of Kansas, and, instead of making “Ad Astra Per Aspera” their motto and giving up, continued to endure and persevere for months and years, slowly consuming their mates on the way. When these people, exhausted and with little hope remaining, saw the water in front of them (after the rain stopped and the fog cleared 6 months later), they knew it was all worth it, and everyone they ate on the way would have wanted it that way. Over time they proceeded to cut and kill most of the things so abundant in the area, swindle the Indians, build depressing slums and fill the void with homeless people, Mexican radio stations, French-speaking tourists and a special breed of people who ride the Ducks.

    Over time, people had an epiphany, and after multiple fires and earthquakes, the Pacific Northwest and Northern California (I have no idea if these are considered one geographical region) are an American jewel, a place where the nature, weather and landscape combined with the architecture, city planning, atmosphere and a number of Asian restaurants approaching infinity make one understand why people are willing to pay mind-blowing prices to live there.

    If I had to summarize Seattle in one photo, it would probably be this shot of a redheaded, bearded guy in a cap, wearing sandals and smoking a pipe.

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  • Old Photos: Education Side-by-Side

    In 1958, six months after the Sputnik was launched, the Life Magazine ran an article comparing an American and a Russian student and drawing conclusions about problems with the American education system. Many of these problems are still with us today; while the Russian education is not what it used to be, the American educators are still busy making kids feel good about themselves, rather than teach, resulting in generations of students without advanced and, sometimes, basic skills.

    You can read the article for yourselves and I will post just photos starting with the Russian student Alexei Kutzkov and continuing with his American Counterpart Stephen Lapekas in the next post.

    Before you look at these photos, I want to point out that not all the Soviet schools in 1958 looked like this one, complete with chemical, physical and mechanical labs and not all the students were genii. Generally in Moscow everything looked better than in the rest of the country, but in every big city there were a few “show” schools, like the one I attended, happy to display the advantages of the Soviet system to the unsuspecting foreigners. Before the showtime an extraordinary amount of cleaning, scrubbing and painting occurred, combined with special deliveries of rare equipment and teaching aids; it wasn’t unheard of to serve improved lunches during the VIP visits; the school had to impress or else. Nevertheless, even without all these things the Soviet education system was one of the best in the world, not only producing world-famous scientists but maintaining high intellectual level in the rest of the population.

    LIFE cover 03-24-1958 re. differences in Russian and American education comparing Moscow student Alexei Kutzkov (L) and his Chicago counterpart Stephen Lapekas (R) in photos by Howard Sochurek & Stan Wayman respectively.© Time
    Russian high school student Alexei Kutzkov. ©Time.Howard Sochurek.
    Soviet public school student Alexei Kutzkov studying an engine in machine shop class. ©Time.Howard Sochurek.
    Alexei Kutzkov and other students attending class. ©Time.Howard Sochurek.
    Alexei Kutzkov (C) attending physics class. ©Time.Howard Sochurek.
    High school student Alexei Kutzkov working in chemistry class. ©Time.Howard Sochurek.
    High school student Alexei Kutzkov studying English in public school. ©Time.Howard Sochurek.
    Alexei Kutzkov (C fore) and other students listening during chemistry class. ©Time.Howard Sochurek.
    High school student Alexei Kutzkov (R) and a classmate stand beside a bust of composer Mikhail I. Glinka at the Moscow Music Conservatory. ©Time.Howard Sochurek.
    Russian high school student Alexei Kutzkov riding subway with school friends during field trip. ©Time.Howard Sochurek.
    High school student Alexei Kutzkov playing in a volleyball game. ©Time.Howard Sochurek.
    Alexei Kutzkov and Oleg Koryakovsky playing chess. ©Time.Howard Sochurek.
    Alexei Kutzkov (R) and friends having lunch. ©Time.Howard Sochurek.
    High school student Alexei Kutzkov and a friend studying together. ©Time.Howard Sochurek.

    Continue to part II.

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  • Old Photos: Winter In Moscow 1959

    I am often asked if I like cold and snow because I am from the USSR where it’s always cold, snowy and hungry bears are roaming the streets attacking the people who spend their days standing in darkness in line for toilet paper. As much as this image is truthful, I only like cold and snow when it stays where it belongs – in Colorado, or more generally away from the areas where I live, work and drive. The song about the white Christmas was probably written somewhere in Florida where it was unlikely to ever happen.
    With this in mind here are some photos of winter in Moscow. Original Life Magazine article can be found here.

    People bundled up against the cold winter weather outside the St. Basil's Cathedral.©Time Carl Mydans
    Children bundled up against the cold winter weather, skiing in the streets.©Time Carl Mydans
    Troika racing in snow-covered Moscow Hippodrome in wintry Moscow.©Time Carl Mydans
    Vendor manning his cart, selling dairy items kept fresh in winter cold.©Time Carl Mydans
    Wintry vista encompassing frozen Moscow River, Kremlin tower & palace.©Time Carl Mydans
    Moscow during winter weather.©Time Carl Mydans
    Woman bundled up against the cold winter weather.©Time Carl Mydans
    Families bundle up against the cold, playing on the ice.©Time Carl Mydans
    Giant snow sculpture of a woman stands outside Lenin Stadium for winter carnival.©Time Carl Mydans
    Ice being broke in river for later winter swimming.©Time Carl Mydans
    Children bundled up against the cold winter weather, sitting on a bench on Gogolevski Boulevard.©Time Carl Mydans
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